Let Them Eat Cake Tour
Marie Antoinette’s Paris tour July 16-20, 2020
Marie Antoinette. The aristocrat who despised the poor. The wife who cuckolded her husband. The queen who brought down the monarchy. Her name is legend, and few figures in history conjure such drama: extravagant, decadent, sensual, cruel. Yet is all of it—or even any of it—true?
This is your chance to find out. (Spoiler alert: she never said, “Let them eat cake.”) On this five day/four night tour, we’ll follow the story of Marie Antoinette and her times—from her early childhood in Austria to the French Revolution that shook the world. We’ll discover how she became the most hated woman of her day, the subject of rabid conspiracy theories and vicious, pornographic pamphlets that make Fox News look like the New York Times.
We’ll learn about the mobs that threatened to kill her; the desperate attempt to flee the country for her life; the bloodshed and savagery that shook France during her reign; and her tragic, noble end, as she was carried past the silent crowds of Paris to lose her head on the guillotine. Our classroom will be Paris, and our text will be its art: the magnificent paintings, sculptures and buildings that illuminate the cultural interests, political views and astonishing events that characterized this fascinating woman and her fascinating times.
How Do We Present Ourselves To The World? If you’ve never thought much about that question, you certainly will after this tour. That’s because you’ll learn about some of the most fascinating, bizarre and painful things people have done throughout history to look impressive, alluring and downright stunning. Welcome to Fashion and Beauty at the Met!
This tour is about everything glamorous. From the grand hairdos of Imperial Rome to the outrageous wigs of the court at Versailles; from gold ear spools in pre-Columbian America to neck rings in Africa and Southeast Asia; and from three hundred years of torturous corsets to three thousand years of gorgeous cosmetics, the history of fashion is on dazzling display at the Met.
We’ll look at fashion from head to toe, as well as inside out. (Just what did Victorian women wear underneath those giant hoops?) And we’ll look at men, too—with their powdered wigs, white makeup, foppish ruffs and of course those ridiculous codpieces
Highlights:
- Charming and central hotel
- Excellent meals
- Paris’ most elegant 18 th century house museum
- Pastry by Stohrer (founded by Queen Marie Leszczynska’s pastry chef in 1730!)
- Walking tour of Revolutionary Paris
- A Marie Antoinette tour of the Louvre
- The Concierge prison
- A full day at Versailles
And more….
Tour Date
July 16-20, 2020
Hotel Accommodation
The Pont Royal is a charming boutique hotel right in the middle of the St. Germain neighborhood, the quintessential Paris neighborhood of intellectual cafés. The hotel itself has a rich literary history, especially in the roaring 20s, when Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald held court in its bar, hosting guests like Ernest Hemingway and Henry Miller.
Travel Insurance Recommendation
We encourage you in the strongest terms to buy travel insurance. Please contact our travel agent partner Tom Vise tomv2012@comcast.net to get a great rate and also help with travel arrangements, including travel flights and pre and post tour hotel rooms.
Day 1.
The tour starts on Wednesday afternoon, with a visit to the most complete 18th century residence in Paris—an early 20th century reconstruction of the Petit Trianon, filled with an amazing collection of 18th century furniture, artworks, objects….
We will learn about 18th century elegance, and also the Proustian world of the Jewish banker collector who built the museum—including the sad end of his family in World War II. After a stroll in the adjacent Parc Monceau—one of the centers of elite life in Paris—we will go nearby to have afternoon tea together at the most beautiful café in all of Paris.
Where else could you eat Paris’ most elegant pastries (from a shop founded by Louis XV’s queen’s personal pastry-chef!) under a Tiepolo ceiling? We then return to our hotel for a free evening; those who arrive this morning will possibly want to rest, but don’t hesitate to ask for our restaurant recommendations!
Day 2.
Today we visit Revolutionary Paris and the sites of the Queen’s tragic end. We start our morning with a walking tour around the Place de la Bastille, where the Revolution started, and the nearby Marais neighborhood, where many reminders of the Revolution remain among the 18th century palaces.
A short taxi ride takes us to the Conciergerie, the grim medieval prison where the Queen (among many others) was imprisoned during the Terror, and from which she was taken to her execution. The chapel on the site of her cell is one of the most moving spots on the entire tour! We take a break from history for a wonderful wine-and-cheese tasting lunch, and follow that with an afternoon visit to the Louvre Museum—not (this time) to see the Monna Lisa or the Nike statue, but to see the great galleries of French 18th century objects, where we will learn about 18th century styles and personalities, and see some objects that actually belonged to the queen herself (as well as some royal mistresses!) Finally, at the end of the afternoon, we walk out through the Tuileries, where the palace stood in which the royal family lived when they were forced to return to Paris from Versailles during the Revolution.
Our day ends at the Place de la Concorde, where the guillotine stood during the Reign of Terror, and where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette met their ends. From here you can return to our hotel by taxi or on foot (it isn’t far!); your evening is free for your own explorations.
Day 3.
Today we concentrate on a more cheerful side of Marie Antoinette’s story, on an excursion to Versailles. We will spend the entire day in the royal domain, the palace (or set of palaces) built by Louis XIV, the Sun King—the splendid symbol of France’s absolute monarchy in its greatest age, imitated by every monarch or potentate across Europe who could afford to do.
In the morning, we visit the main palace and see the public spaces such as the renowned Hall of Mirrors, as well as the private apartments of Louis XV and XVI. After lunch at a quiet restaurant set among the gardens, we spend the afternoon visiting the Petit Trianon and the adjacent “hamlet.” The Trianons were small chateaux built in the woods as a retreat from the court in the big chateau (which had originally been built as a retreat!).
The Petit Trianon was a kind of pleasure pavilion, built for Louis XV’s mistress, Madame de Pompadour, and passed on to his next mistress, Madame du Barry. When Louis XVI ascended to the throne, he gave the Petit Trianon to Marie Antoinette as her own private space—with a gate that opened only at the Queen’s invitation. Here Marie Antoinette spent time with her friends, apart from the court and without court etiquette. She even built, as we will see, a fake peasant village in the chateau’s gardens, where she and her friends could milk cows! Sadly, while her need for escape may seem comprehensible to us, the closed gate bred rumors and resentment….
Day 4.
This morning we go to the suburb of St. Denis to visit the Royal Basilica, the burial site of French kings from the 10th century to the 18th. The Abbey is a fascinating place for many reasons. It was among other things the first Gothic building! But it is mainly famous for the crypt and the great royal monuments (which were saved from the Revolution by and intrepid museum curator!).
Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were not originally buried here: the Revolutionaries buried them in a trench near the Madeleine and covered their corpses with quicklime. But their remains were brought here in 1830 to a new Bourbon crypt, and a monument was erected which is generally considered one of the most accurate likenesses of the Queen. After our visit we return to Paris for a free afternoon, to explore its museums, its elegant shops (an “industry” fostered by Marie Antoinette!), its patisseries…. In the evening, we will gather for a farewell dinner, in one of Paris’ most charming bistros.
Day 5
Our tour concludes with breakfast today, but we are happy to help you with the rest of your travel plans. Please let us know about your return flight, especially if is today, so we can help with your arrangements.
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[ucaddon_uc_movie_widget image=”6521″ btn_bg=”#ef577a” link=”https://www.peek.com/s/f8a1c6c2-a77a-473f-9edf-7cf396f39bc0/A1D6″ btn_text=”BOOK NOW” title=”Jean-Honoré Fragonard The Love Letter (circa 1772)” content_bg=”#eeeeee”]If one painting could symbolize the Ancien Régime, this would be it. It is about seduction at every level. Its subject seems to be a mutual seduction: a woman responds with an inviting (if cheeky) look to a gift of a bouquet of roses. The style too, with its light brushwork and pastel colors, seduces the viewer. It seems likely, furthermore, that this painting was made for Madame du Barry, the last great royal mistress before the Revolution. It was for her that Louis XV had the fatal diamond necklace made that later on ruined Marie Antoinette’s reputation, ultimately placing both women on the guillotine…. [/ucaddon_uc_movie_widget]
[ucaddon_uc_movie_widget image=”6520″ btn_bg=”#ef577a” link=”https://www.peek.com/s/f8a1c6c2-a77a-473f-9edf-7cf396f39bc0/A1D6″ btn_text=”BOOK NOW” title=”Jacques-Louis David Death of Socrates (1787)” content_bg=”#f8f7f7″]In contrast to “The Love Letter,” David’s painting does not seduce. Instead, it instructs by representing a clear ideal model for the citizen, who must be ready, like Socrates, to die for his principles. The brilliant light focuses our gaze on Socrates, who shows no emotional reaction to his impending death but reaches firmly for the cup of poison while pointing upward to the eternal realm of principle. The Revolution was only 2 years away in 1787; when it happened, David would be an enthusiastic and important member of the most extreme faction: his signature was even on the death warrants of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette![/ucaddon_uc_movie_widget]
[ucaddon_uc_movie_widget image=”6519″ btn_bg=”#ef577a” link=”https://www.peek.com/s/f8a1c6c2-a77a-473f-9edf-7cf396f39bc0/A1D6″ btn_text=”BOOK NOW” title=”Louis-Léopold Boilly” content_bg=”#eeeeee”]David was a severely rigorous painter but easily carried away by political enthusiasms: he was an extreme Revolutionary and then an ardent supporter of and propagandist for Napoleon. In the background of this painting, we see one of his propaganda paintings, a portrayal of one of Napoleon’s ballsiest gestures: crowning his Empress himself (after having seized the crown from the Pope and crowned himself too). In the foreground we see the crowd (dressed in the new post-Revolutionary fashion) looking at the painting in the Louvre, at that time recently converted from a royal palace into the world’s first public art museum. [/ucaddon_uc_movie_widget]